Fall-Winter 2019-2020
Haute Couture show

July 1, 2019 - Paris - 2:30PM (GMT+02)

Questioning the form and function of clothing, the reflections of architect Bernard Rudofsky inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri’s new conceptual vision of haute couture as art meant to adorn ever unique bodies with their own identities. 

On the heels of this modern thinker, who places key emphasis on the relationship between couture and architecture – two disciplines whose designs pertain to the human body and its proportions – Maria Grazia Chiuri presents her Fall-Winter 2019-2020 Haute Couture collection in Dior's very own home: the birthplace of the Maison – 30 avenue Montaigne – where every single Artistic Director has worked in close collaboration with the Workshops.

Among the inspirations for this collection, the powerful black and white works of Penny Slinger – the feminist artist who conceived the show’s set design – illustrate the alchemical force of fire, air and water, at the heart of a hostile and mysterious nature, teeming with feminine creatures. These creatures have always born the weight of the world, like a contemporary interpretation of the caryatids, the sculptures that represent the female body, supporting the architecture of ancient temples as well as the Parisian buildings* they adorn, draped in sleek tunics. It is in this image that Maria Grazia Chiuri designed a single white dress for this collection, which explores the multi-faceted power of black. “I could write a book about black,” remarked Christian Dior in The Little Dictionary of Fashion. The peplos – the tunic worn by Ancient Greek women – has no definite, constructed cut: it is the body that gives it shape. In his last collection, Christian Dior returned to this essential form of draping, creating a dialogue between the notions of couture and architecture, from the soft and flowing to the structured and tailored. The question “Are Clothes Modern?” still resonates today, underscoring the power of haute couture to question modernity.

Creating a collection almost entirely in black, interspersed with the occasional pop of color that reveals its power, implies going back to the basics, the foundations of haute couture, and bringing them face to face with modern-day lifestyles. Here, black demands perfection and gives life to pieces that are transformed. Each dress is an edifice that unveils its structure, the skeleton that supports and defines it. “What we need is not a new way of building, but a new way of living,” asserted Bernard Rudofsky. In the same way, this collection builds a new landscape to question the notions of the body, clothes, and habitats; haute couture becomes a laboratory of creation to rethink clothing and its relationship with space and time differently.

*These caryatids, poetically filmed in the streets of Paris by director Agnès Varda, in her documentary Les Dites Cariatides (1984), inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri in her haute couture creations.

Interview with Maria Grazia Chiuri

Savoir-Faire

Interview with Peter Philips

Interview with Penny Slinger

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Fall-Winter 2019-2020
Haute Couture show

01 July 2019 - Paris - 14H30 (GMT+02)

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