Moment of Grace
Opening the show, a golden dress with all-over fringing evokes a graphic take on the peplum, its grace further accentuated by the way it moves. Other creations sporting delicate braids at the waist are also imbued with a majestic sense of femininity.
Going for Gold
In the heart of the show’s committed scenography designed by Judy Chicago – serving both as an artwork and a sanctuary - contemporary neo-goddesses with golden auras suddenly appear. This divine color – dear to the House of Dior since its founding - gleams on suits and long dresses: magnificent reinterpretations of ancient peplums, the key inspiration of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Woven with ultra-fine metallic threads, the houndstooth and chevron patterns light up, and feminize, the haute couture ensembles.
An ode to femininity, the collection also honors elements of nature dear to Maria Grazia Chiuri. Evoking the creative power of women, ears of wheat – a symbol of wholesomeness used to weave the crowns on some of the goddesses’ heads - punctuate silhouettes crated from tulle or jacquard. A plaited and draped cloud dress is embroidered with a bewitching stormy sky. Embellished with an ornate moon gleaming with golden pearls and midnight blue fringes, the final look displays virtuoso savoir-faire, as the sartorial embodiment of empowerment.
Celebrating female power, the peplum, an ancient costume known for the way it sculpts the body, is reinvented through the eyes of Maria Grazia Chiuri, declined in a palette of rare and precious colors that the Creative Director finds captivating, spanning white, sky blue, amethyst, absinthe and amaranth. The piece’s essential, timeless allure is enhanced by Dior’s haute couture savoir-faire, using a precise cutting technique for light fabrics such as chiffon. An exceptional architectural feat, the iconic Bar suit undergoes a metamorphosis, adopting the drapes and curves of this divine tunic.
Other themes from the show’s silhouettes include the feminization of armor, balancing strength and delicacy. Embodying exceptional savoir-faire, the collection’s bodices sport subtle rat’s-tail cord embroideries, reinterpreting chainmail or even the form of a lion’s head. The use of sequins on the final look - depicting the moon, a symbol of femininity - adds a poetic touch to these outfits for modern-day Amazons.
A symbolic embodiment of dress in the ancient world, and a testimony to exceptional craftsmanship, braids and twists are reinterpreted in graphic, modern spins of draping and pleating technics. Fusing with the structure of the dresses, they encircle the waist, enhancing the lightness and transparency of the chiffon while delicately revealing the skin.
Photo credit - Morgan O'Donovan